"There’s always been a notion of the economies of scale but that doesn’t work that well here. A good bag needs x amount of hours. "
“一直以来都强调大规模生产的概念,但这在这里行不通。一个好包需要几个小时。你不能欺骗自己。 虽然这里的一些工厂已经开始使用装配线来加速制造过程,但许多工厂拒绝妥协。”
Jorge Oliva Perez, general manager at local leather brand El Potro says a single worker still makes the entire bag, bar the cutting and the design.
当地皮革品牌El Potro的总经理豪尔赫.奥利瓦.佩雷斯表示,这里仍有一名工人负责整个包的制作,不会分工,也不会负责设计。
"It’s very important to hold onto these skills," says Jorge.
“坚持这些技能是非常重要的,”豪尔赫说。
Like many of those working here, Jorge would like this expertise officially recognised with - a "Made in Ubrique" label.
和许多在这里工作的人一样,豪尔赫也希望能附上官方认可的专业的“made in Ubrique”的标签。
"I think it’s very important for our future," he says.
“我认为这对我们的未来非常重要,”他说。
Many of the big brands had decided to cut costs by switching supplier - in most cases shifting orders to China or elsewhere in Asia.
许多大品牌已经决定通过更换供应商来降低成本,大多将订单转移到中国或亚洲其他地方。
While orders from cheaper brands continued, there was less work overall which meant some people lost their jobs and went into other industries.
尽管来自较廉价的品牌的订单持续增长,但总的工作减少了,这意味着一些人失去了工作,进入了其他行业。
Nonetheless, Ubrique’s councillor for culture Jose Manuel Fernadez Rivera says most workers "kept working because they knew that their quality was better and they were going to come back".
尽管如此,Ubrique的Jose Manuel Fernadez Rivera说,大多数工人“继续在这里工作,因为他们知道他们的质量更好,客户将会回来”。
It turned out to be true. A year later, most of the big brands had returned.
事实证明这是真的。一年后,大多数大品牌都重新回到这里。
"The Chinese learn very fast but we know that the quality, the detail that we give in every piece, which is what the brands ask for, they’re not going to get that," he says.
他说:“中国人学得很快,但我们知道,每件商品的质量、细节,都是品牌所要求的,他们是做不到的。”
The other issue that drove the brands to return to a European manufacturer, was that a bag made in Asia was a tough sell to some of their biggest customers - those living in Hong Kong, China and Singapore.
另一个促使这些品牌回到欧洲制造商的原因是,亚洲制造的这些高端包包一般很难在香港、中国和新加坡有市场。
When they’re paying hundreds, or in some cases thousands of euros, to buy a bag from a top Italian and French designer then they expect it to be made there not in their home country.
他们一般不会支付数百美元甚至数千欧元,从顶级的意大利和法国设计师那里购买一个包。
"In this business you have to work with your hands. Every product is different because you do it one by one," says Mr Sanchez.
“在这个行业里,你必须用你的双手去一点一点做。工匠一个接一个地做,每一个都独一无二。”
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于诗词盛宴中看见书香霞浦2024-05-28
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